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Posts Tagged ‘Isle of Jura

Being George Orwell

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Based on the film Being John Malkovich

In the aftermath of the Second World War, author George Orwell secluded himself on the bleak, outpost of Jura in the Inner Hebrides off the western coast of Scotland. It was here in the splendid isolation of the western isles that he wrote his opus, 1984. This is a journey to retrace his steps.

I departed from Nottingham in the East Midlands, traveling north through the Yorkshire Dales. If you’ve seen my previous trip reports, you know that the Yorkshire Dales are a bucolic setting worthy of being a destination in itself. It was on the narrow roads of West Yorkshire where TT champion David Jefferies honed his craft. Yorkshire is also home to the Lampkin motorcycle trials dynasty and it is not unusual to spot a number of trials bikes using public roads to link their trials areas. By chance, I come upon the The Yorke Arms hotel in a tiny village in the Nidderdale Valley that featured a Michelin starred restaurant. Sometimes I just get lucky.

The second day would be a short jaunt to the English Lake District, where I procured a room overlooking Lake Windermere

Windermere

I spent the following day touring the Lake District passes in splendid October sunshine

Lake District 1

Lake District 2

Lake District 3

After an overnight stay near Glasgow, I head north along the scenic Loch Lomond with the splendid weather still holding firm

Loch Lomond

A left turn at Tarbert takes me on the A85 along the Loch Fyne

Loch Fyne

I reach the ferry port of Kennacraig at midday, and by some miracle, the ferry to Islay is loading. It’s as if it were meant to be. After about a 3 hour sail, we reach Port Askaig on Islay. I ride across the island to Bowmore where I secure a room right next to the Bowmore Distillery. The next morning, I catch the small ferry across the Sound of Islay to the Isle of Jura

Jura Ferry 1

Tourism is light at this time of year. I’m the only vehicle making the crossing. I guess the adventure riders went elsewhere

Jura Ferry 2

My only link to civilization disappears over the horizon (possible embellishment)

Jura Ferry 3

Looking across the Sound of Islay towards Islay

Islay Sound

The only road on the island heads up the east coast from the ferry port

Jura Road

A farm house with a million dollar view across the Sound of Islay

Farm House

Looking southwards

Southwards

The splendid isolation and wild beauty of Jura, virtually unchanged in the sixty some years since Orwell travelled this same road

Wild

Orwell spent approximately three years writing 1984 in between jaunts with his son, hiking and exploring the island

Beauty

Clusters of farm houses dot the coast

Cluster

As you continue northwards, the road begins to deteriorate

Road 2

An unexpected patch of forest and pasture

Forest[/IMG][/URL]

Before the scenery opens up once more

Scenery

I spotted numerous stags in the grasslands who exhibited no fear of human contact

Stag

Close up

Close Up

Four miles short of Orwell’s farmhouse in Barnhill, the ride comes to an abrupt end

End

Curses!

Curses

Nothing left to do but turn around and head south on the same single track

Single Track

An old barn overlooks the coast, the Scottish mainland in the distance

Barn

Although Orwell’s writing thrived on the island, his health took a turn for the worse. In 1947 he was diagnosed with TB. At the time, there was no cure for the disease. He managed to finish 1984 in November 1948, and died early in 1950.

The only hotel on the island is the Jura Hotel in the village of Craighouse, where I stop for a lunch of tomato pepper soup and fresh crab

Soup

Soup 2

After a late lunch, I catch the four o’clock ferry back to Islay. Back on Islay, I ride along the narrow sound between Islay and Jura.

Looking across the sound to the Paps of Jura

Paps of Jura

A quick stop for refreshment at the Bunnahabhain Distillery

Distillery

Another view across the Sound of Islay towards Jura. The natural light at these northern latitudes can sometimes provide some spectacular displays, especially when rain showers simultaneously compete alongside bright sunshine to produce some mesmerizing lighting effects which in turn compete with the beauty of the natural surroundings. Something of a reward for being out in inclement weather

Light

Islay lacks a bit of the rugged isolation of Jura, but has its own special charm

Islay

Two friends along Loch Indall in southwestern Islay

Friends

The village of Portnahaven with the Orsay Lighthouse in the distance

Portnahaven

Hairy Scottish cattle give me the once over

Cattle

The 7 o’clock ferry was the only available crossing back to the mainland. UGH!

Early

Watching the sunrise over Jura from aboard the ferry

Jura Sunrise

This description of an Islay malt made laugh. I had never seen spirits described in military terms

Islay Malt

After reaching the mainland, I take a short jaunt across the Kintyre Peninsula and catch another ferry to the Isle of Arran. The weather began to take a turn for the worse and I was holed up for two days waiting out the rain. Fortunately, I stayed in a comfortable country home with an excellent restaurant. Eventually, the rain tapered off, and I caught yet another ferry across the Firth of Clyde to the town of Ardrossan on the mainland.

Looking back at Arran from the ferry

Arran

After 5 days in Scotland, I head south back into England, where I make my way to visit an old friend in Shropshire. The next day would be a short hop across the Peak District back to Nottingham.

I stopped at the famous Cat & Fiddle Pub. As it is a sunny Sunday afternoon, the place is hopping with bikes

Cat & Fiddle

Not just bikes, but even some Lotuses (Loti?)

Lotus

Even the Smart cars were out in force, cheekily making three parking spaces out of two

Smart

About an hour before reaching Nottingham, I pass thru the town of Matlock Bath, the East Midland’s answer to L.A.’s Rock Store. The town is bursting at the seams with hundreds of bikers enjoying the sunny Sunday afternoon. Almost looks like the main drag of Sturgis

Matlock Bath

Trip Stats:

Distance- +/- 1300 miles
Travel days- 9
Rest days- 3
Police sightings- 0
Deer sightings- 3
Bee stings- 0

Route maps:

Scotland leg

Scotland

England leg

England

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Written by orsonstravels

November 6, 2013 at 4:22 am